Modified John Hall BRW D28 Kit This was my second guitar kit that I built. It is a Brazilian Rosewood Martin style 28 kit from John Hall at Blues Creek Guitar. The back and sides are brazilian rosewood, top is Engelmann spruce and the neck is mahogany. The quality of the wood shipped was great. I did not use the plastic bindings and purflings shipped with the kit and subsituted curly maple bindings and herringbone purflings.The kit build went OK with a number of firsts for me: Zpoxy pore, fill, sprayed water based spar varnish and a dovetail neck. The hardest task for me was to get the neck angle adjusted. A dovetail on a guitar has 8 surfaces and three degrees of alignment to get straight. It took me a bit of work but I finally got the dry fit dovetail right where I wanted it. But I had such a tight joint that when I glued it up the neck end up just shy of setting in where I want it. It is OK for now, but I do have my first major repair planned: a neck set. I tried to brush on the KTM-SV but was not happy with the results. Ultimately I sprayed the varnish on and am happy with the result.   French Polished Englemann Top   KTM-SV on Zpoxy pore fill for the back and sides. This picture is the guitar at 1 year.   Guitar right after finishing. Prepairing to glue back seam strip.   Sides in drednaught mode built from 3.4 MDF   Prepairing to glue tail block and heel block. Gluing Back braces on new go-bar deck.   gluing xbrace on go-bar deck in 28' radius disk.   completed top. Top on bench.   glue-up of the end block and heel block.   right after the kerflings were glued on. side braces were made with spanish cedar.   side braces glued in. On top is a LMI drednaught template.   Hard to see the guitar but I radiused the rims with 28' (top) and 16' (bottom) radius dish. Cutting inlay for curly maple end-graft   End graft glued into rim.   Preparing to glue back preparing top glue top   top glued first   Back glued on. Ledge for the binding routed.   To deal with the back radius I shimmed the base of the router to close to the correct angle.   Fitting top bindings and purflings fitting back binding with a maple and black fiber purfling   I fit all of the bindings before I glued up any. One really needs to be careful with the curly maple bindings I snapped a couple.   Completed body! I spent a lot of time setting the dove tail. I actually set it a few times. Gluing shims to the neck dovetail tenon for each re-try.   I used a dremal tool to route the inlays on the fret board.   I was happy at this point with the dry fit of the neck. Zpoxy pore fill on back.   zpoxy pore fill on sides.   Ready for finsih. I pore filled the the neck with ZPoxy.   Brushed on KTM-SV finsih.   Tryed to brush on KTM-SV to back and sides but was never really happy with the results. I came really close. If I had the skill I probably could have fixed my mistakes and complete the guitar with a brush. Ultimatly I bought a Earlex spray station 5000 spray gun and started to get the finish I was looking for.   Before I glued the neck on I was really happy with the fit and neck angle   The fretboard delivered the correct height at the saddle and was co-planer to the body Unfortunatly when gluing in the neck, the glue kept the neck from seating properly ( note the gap at the heel). I did not notice this at the time I was doing the glue-up.   I used the Kenneth Michael Guitars Bridge Setter tool to place the bridge. Here I am gluing on the bridge with the bridge clamp that comes with the bridge setter tool.   I French polished top with Behlen Qualasole. This picture is just before setup.